John Gorham preparing Sambuca fennel pork sausage at Acadia
At the end of November I covered a tattoo/food event for Portland Monthly that took place by day at Infinity Tattoo and by night at Acadia. During the day eight Portland chefs got food-themed tattoos and by night those chefs, and one bartender, prepared food and drink related to the tattoos.
I interviewed the chefs and tattooists throughout the day. Most interviews were a quick walk around the block from Infinity since the shop was so loud. There were a couple times when I was tempted to snag a chef or two that had strayed to the tavern across the street but I didn't and just moved on down the list. For the most part I asked everyone the same set of questions.
The resulting Portland Monthly story was all about the visuals -- chefs under needle, tattooists and their art, inspired food, celebration -- and Chris Ryan's photos capture all of that. Jessica Helmke took the candids here.
I'm going to give you some more words, some snippets from the interviews not included in the original story. I'd also like to add that it was great working with PM's Camas Davis on this assignment and I'm very disappointed that she was laid off in late January.
Participating tattooists: Infinity Tattoo's Alice Kendall, Paul Zenk, Amanda Myers, Tyler Adams, Rich Cuellar; Tigerlily Tattoo's Matt Reed, Optic Nerve Art's Tim Jordan, Pussycat Tattoo's Saad Sweilem.
Participating chefs: Gabriel Rucker Le Pigeon, John Gorham Toro Bravo, Sarah Higgs Acadia, John Eisenhart Pazzo, Karl Zenk Heathman, Adam Higgs Acadia, Tommy Habetz Bunk Sandwiches, Dusty York bartender Bluehour.
TATTOOISTS
Amanda Myers, 43, Infinity Tattoo
When did you start tattooing?
I've been tattooing for many years -- since 1991. I started at Sea Tramp with Don Deaton.
How many chefs/restaurant workers do you see?
A lot. It's working class people that we see mostly, those people are interested in tattoos. Not so much lawyers -- although we get white collar folks too.
What are some of your favorite foods?
Mushrooms, especially wild ones. Local food, local produce and greens. Food that we grow in our yard.
Alice Kendall, 38, Infinity Tattoo
What's your favorite tattoo or your first tattoo?
I can't say I have a favorite because then the people who I don't mention would feel bad so the first one was in 1989 -- a moon, star and cloud from Pinky Yun in San Jose, California.
How often do you tattoo chefs and restaurant workers?
Pretty often. I think it's mostly because of Paul [Zenk] and all the restaurant people he knows. It's also that they're both alternative cultures -- cooking seems to be an alternative lifestyle just like tattooing.
Paul Zenk, 37, Infinity Tattoo
Is there anything that still makes you nervous about tattooing people?
I'm always nervous about tattooing.
What's your favorite tattoo?
The one that Amanda [Myers -- Paul's wife] did in 1985 of Notre Dame de Paris.
What's your favorite type of food?
Mexican
Tyler Adams, 34, Infinity Tattoo
Why do you think chefs are so into tattoos in Portland?
Because they're low-lifes and sailors at heart.
Is there anything still make you nervous about tattooing people?
Portraits. You can mess them up pretty easily -- one false move and a tattoo turns from mom into dad.
Rich Cuellar, 42, Infinity Tattoo
When did you start tattooing?
About 5 years ago in 2003/2004. I always wanted to tattoo. I went to school as a graphic designer, quickly got tired of that, quit and started tattooing.
What are some of your favorite foods?
Mexican foods. Tamales. I use my dad's old recipe from his mom. There's brown sugar, garlic, pork, and chicken in them. We used to fill them with goat when we were kids in LA but I didn't really like that as a kid. I thought the goat was too tough and gamey. I really love garlic. I'd eat garlic out of my shoe.
Matt Reed, 38, Tiger Lily Tattoo
Why do you think chefs are so into tattoos in Portland?
It's a job where you're not in the public eye and I think chefs tend to be more creative people. I enjoy cooking but I'm not very good at it. I get flustered with the timing of cooking, things getting done at the right time. Dinner is a joke -- there has to be a three or four hour window. My wife is a really fast cook though and she makes food better than most restaurants.
What kind of foods do you eat as a family?
When my daughter was three she said, 'Do you know why I like pigs?' I asked why and she said, 'Because they're pink AND they make pork.' I've been cooking a lot of bacon wrapped scallops lately.
Tim Jordan, 32, Optic Nerve
What's your favorite tattoo?
The one on my ribs that's an ode to my dad. There's a frozen raven in an icicle, with a hockey and broom stick crossed behind it, and snowflakes.
What do you like to eat?
I'm pretty easy to please. I'm a carnisaur -- I like eating meat. Whatever as long as it's got some meat in it.
Saad Sweilem, 34, Pussycat Tattoo
How many tattoos do you have?
For a tattoo artist I'm not that heavily tattooed. I don't know, probably 10 to 15.
What's your favorite food?
Garlic. I think it's because I'm Arabic, my dad's full Arab. My dad would eat garlic raw growing up, but I like it cooked, a little more mild. My sister makes a really good baba ganouj.
CHEFS
Gabriel Rucker, 27, Le Pigeon,
What's your favorite tattoo?
My Mother's Day tattoo that says mom on my ribs. I got it last year on Mother's Day.
What food do you most like to prepare?
Probably foie gras because it's so versatile. You can make dessert with it, you can poach things in it...
John Gorham, 36,Toro Bravo,
What do you like to cook at home?
I like to pick a cuisine and cook it. A couple weeks ago I cooked a Tuscan dinner, then a Moroccan dinner. I pick a cuisine I don't cook at work and just go with it.
What's your favorite tattoo?
The one that Tyler [Adams] did of the pin-up girl, broken into cuts of meat. Chicken Shit Mills is another favorite. My sous-chef chickened out of getting a tattoo so I got a chicken shitting out his name -- "Mills" -- on my ass.
Sarah Higgs, 31, Acadia,
What do you like to cook?
I like to cook French style food -- sausages, pates, and more complex charcuterie.
What's the painful tattoo you've gotten?
The part of my sleeve near and on my wrist that Paul [Zenk] did of birds and plants.
Tommy Habetz, 36, Bunk Sandwiches,
Where have you worked locally?
Lucere, Genoa, Family Supper, Ripe, Gotham Building Tavern, Meriwether's, Bunk Sandwiches.
Why do you think so many chefs have tattoos?
Because we're cool and chicks dig tattoos. [laughter]
John Eisenhart, 38, Pazzo,
When did you start cooking?
When I was 14 I was a dishwasher for two years. Then I just made my way up in that Italian restaurant in Sonoma, California.
What was your first tattoo?
A crown of thorns.
Karl Zenk, 44, the Heathman,
When did you start cooking?
1984
When did you get your first tattoo?
My first real tattoo?
Well, not your first fake tattoo...
I did my first tattoo with a Bic pen and wire when I was 21 but my first real one Amanda [Myers] did in 1986. It's a Northwest Indian style raven.
Adam Higgs, 33, Acadia,
Where have you worked in Portland?
I was chef at L'Auberge for a year then moved to Acadia. I started working there and then soon after bought the restaurant.
When did you get your first tattoo?
In about five minutes.
Dusty York, 30, former bartender Bluehour,
Where have you worked as a bartender in Portland?
Brasserie Montmarte and Bluehour. It was truly an honor to be the last bartender at Brasserie. We ran out of liquor closing night.
Why do you think so many food and drink professionals have tattoos?
I have no idea but I do know that tattoos confuse people -- especially people with preconceived notions about you. I guess one reason why is that restaurant work is so stressful, and maybe doing that day-after-day leads to tattoos. Then you're putting that same thing into your body. It definitely has a masochistic side.
Alice Kendall tattooing a brook trout on Tommy Habetz